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Submitted by
Name: mark
From: manchester, sale

Comments:
Thank you very much for the illustrations to the 24cdi worcester boiler. It took me 8 hours to change the diverter valve (rather than the diaphragm),and it worked first time.

Added: May 13, 2012

Submitted by
Name: Chris6
From: Southampton
E-mail: Viewable to admin only

Comments:
Worcester 35 CDI II
Very useful information, I successfully replaced the diaphragm on my boiler today. Followed the boiler manual with help from the photos and the comments on this site, no problems and no leaks. It took me about 3 and half hours but I was taking it very slowly and had plenty of cups of tea. I replaced all of the o-rings from a pack I ordered specifically for the boiler. This seemed really expensive £14 just for some o-rings, could I have just used generic o-rings from one of those o-ring sets? The only real difference seemed to be the thickness of the o-ring. Anyway much much cheaper to change this yourself than get a professional in, although I can see why they have to charge a lot to replace this part as you do have to take out a lot of components. I guess this is a bit of a design flaw by Worcester as this part has a limited life span and will fail. Thanks again for all of the info.

Added: April 21, 2012

Submitted by
Name: Mike Powers
From: Newcastle Upon Tyne
E-mail: Viewable to admin only

Comments:
Hi

Just like to thank you for your information on the Worcester CDi 24 diverter valve and it's replacement. I found the information extremely useful!

I would however, like to let others know I - after a lot of deep thinking - I found a temporary 'workaround' until I can replace the entire diverter unit. Having read how to test if the micro switch is ok which leads to the diaphragm fault I got to thinking of how to overcome this issue on a temporary basis. My solution was to cut 2 circles of plastic - thank god for old credit cards! - and glue them to the plastic cap of the diaphragm spindle. Voila! I now have hot water from the tap!! :-)

Thank you all for your input and hope my 'workaround' will inspire someone else to use their initiative!

Thanks!!

Added: February 27, 2012

Submitted by
Name: Brian Goodman
E-mail: Viewable to admin only

Comments:
Thanks so much for the advise on this website. I managed to change the Diverter Valve without too much effort. Refitting the copper bi pass pipe was very awkward but eventually got it in with a bit of brute force and lots of wiggling. One point to remember make sure you have inserted the replacement filter in mains water inlet of the Diverter Valve, before you refit it!! (I learnt a hard lesson)

When I tried to turn the system back on I had issues with air in the system and an overheating problem causing it to switch itself off after 30 seconds or so. So I drained half the water out of the radiators (to drop pressure by half)then set the pump on low (switch on right side of pump) then refilled the system with the pump running on low. This got rid of the air and it is working well. I hope this advice helps some body in the future.

Added: February 20, 2012

Submitted by
Name: Pete
E-mail: Viewable to admin only

Comments:
I started my strip down of our 28CDi at 9:30 in the morning and finally got it all back together at 9 at night. The problem was it was leaking enough to fill a bucket every couple of hours. I bought the diaphragm rather than the whole valve. When I asked for a pack of O rings and fibre washers the guy in the plumbing shop reckoned only O rings were normally needed for this job but he kindly gave me a couple of fibre washers as well which were needed. Silicone grease can be bought at Maplins.

Draining down the system was tough enough for me because I had no experience of doing this. Have plenty of towels ready. Why water comes out all over the place I have little idea. The filling loop was reasonably simple and the heat exchanger also, but take care to remember the direction/order of everything. When I got down to the diverter valve itself I couldn�t get it off and was wondering if I�d missed something and how much force I was allowed to use. I had to take a trip to the plumbing shop for advice and get my wife on the job who prised it off with one of those mini nail-puller tools. In other words you might have to really put some force in. Unbelievably, the changing of the diaphragm takes about ten minutes. My big mistake (getting lazy) was to assume that the two O rings at the back of the diverter valve (in the case of the boiler itself, yes there is one on the right) wouldn�t need replacing because they hadn�t actually moved.

Getting the thing back together wasn�t too bad but the heat exchanger must go on before the loop otherwise you can�t get access to the big nut. The hardest thing is the bypass pipe which so many other people have mentioned. I found I could get it seated down and the pin in with the diverter valve swung out towards me i.e. that the bypass pipe is done before anything else at all when re-building. I filled the boiler with crossed fingers but reasonably happy, but no, the thing dripped loads. It was then a week of emptying buckets before I had another clear day to tackle it again. A new O ring pack was also needed because I couldn�t be sure the week-old ones would be OK. When I re-did it of course it was much more familiar but for some reason when I put it all back together again there was water puthering out of where the bypass pipe goes in. I was now ready to call the wife back in or smash the boiler with a lump hammer.

The real problem here was that if I needed to take the whole thing apart again just to sort out the bypass pipe then how was I to know whether I needed to renew all the O rings again? Luckily I read the account at the bottom of the home page where the guy suggests taking out the bypass pipe at its other end and with this piece of advice my wife spent about four hours doing this one job without having to take the whole boiler apart. She had to bend the pipe itself to allow it to enter perfectly vertically and says she could tell when the bypass pipe was correctly seated such that the pin will fit easily because it gives a satisfying snap.
The job is satisfying when it�s done but, for me, hard work. Good luck and thank-you Mathew.

Admin reply: Well done Pete - if nothing else you deserve an award for perseverence! Regarding the re-use of o-rings, this is perfectly acceptable if the o-rings are not that old as they only start to solidify and permanently deform after having been fitted for a while i.e. after a few months or so. Even then you might be okay but it's arguably a risk not worth taking. ...Mathew

Added: January 31, 2012

Submitted by
Name: Aussie John
From: Yorkshire
E-mail: Viewable to admin only

Comments:
Great help; valve changed, no worries. I am now using the COUPE section to repair my auto box.

Added: January 28, 2012

Submitted by
Name: aussiedeuce
From: Australia
E-mail: Viewable to admin only

Comments:
1999 FX Coupe(Tiburon). 2.0L with a blown head gasket. but heaps of after market goodies. I want to race it. So I search across the globe for cheap parts.

Wish me luck.

PS: Great info and easy to use site. chEERS, BOYS.

Added: January 14, 2012

Submitted by
Name: wayne
E-mail: Viewable to admin only

Comments:
Damn !!!
Boiler keeps tripping on hot water, runs for about 30 secs then fault light goes onto fast flashing,ch runs ok, have changed the dhw sensor and made no difference....any suggestions welcome.........

Added: January 11, 2012

Submitted by
Name: wayne
E-mail: Viewable to admin only

Comments:
The eagle has landed.......!!!!!
Took me 6 hours, had to get some more silicon grease and could'nt find the boss white.
Glad I left it until the weekend, knew it would take ages.
Thanks for all the info-

Added: January 7, 2012

Submitted by
Name: Ian
From: Gawler South Australia
E-mail: Viewable to admin only

Comments:
good stuff - would like to know more

Added: January 5, 2012

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