Comments: Replaced the worcester boiler diaphragm yesterday. 3 hour job, no leaks, saved me £250 and now have all the hot water I need. Thanks :thumbsup:
Added: January 9, 2011
Submitted by Name: Martin From: Barnsley, south yorkshire, uk E-mail: Viewable to admin only
Comments: Hi, thanks for the hyundai coupe workshop manual, a great help with many things, rest of your site is interesting too, thanks again.
Comments: followed this oct last year worked great up until now once again followed it throught got the diaphram out its brand new so thats not the prob start scratching ov the head time for now a small pebble came out withthe excess water thought that would hve been it but no problem now water coming from the overflow outside constantly
Comments: Perfect!..I've just bought a MkI f2, with the intention of working on it through the winter, and was amazed to find there is no manual available for it (nearly 15 years after it was launched...come on Haynes!), but this website is far better! I shall keep the window open 24/7...
Comments: Many thanks for the Worcester 28CDi information. I was going to tackle this replacement but with some trepidation. After finding your site I now have a renewed confidence that I will be able to complete the procedure. BJB
Added: October 21, 2010
Submitted by Name: Guy called Russ From: Somewhere in Glasgow E-mail: Viewable to admin only
Comments: A big thanks for the Worcester Diverter Valve/Diaphragm guide!
I'm an electrician with reasonable level of skills when it comes to these kind of things, but this post really helped and probably saves me a few hours invesigating! Thanks to your post I changed the Diaphragm in less than an hour, with the boiler back to normal operation. I'm sure your post has saved me in the region of a £200 call out bill. Although parts where still in the £50 region - Shocking prices for this kind of thing - £21+VAT for Diaphragm at local merchants after already spending £10 on duff one at eBay! Then £10 and £8 respectively for the NEEDED o-ring and fibre washers.
Comments: Thank you. Found the Coupe stuff really useful. Haynes dont do a manual and the information you have provided gives you the confidence to carry out repairs without the guesswork.
Comments: I have just bought a y reg coupe gen 2 do the specs and diagrams help with my model. If not wow what a great website congrats will keep on favs even for the boiler info.
Admin reply: Hi Taff. The service manual also covers the Gen 2 as the only changes from the Gen 1 were cosmetic (and separate headlamps). ..Mathew
Comments: Finally completed - it took ages but next time would be very quick. Hope these hints help:
On my model (with 4 machine screws holding the black plastic on the left) there is no need to take the filling loop off the diverter.
Only need to remove the by-pass (small dia) pipe from the left (black plastic) end - suggest leaving right end in place.
I removed the bolt and the machine screw which hold the silver mounting bracket to the chassis but left the diverter attached - though note where it goes before detaching.
Once everything has been removed from the diverter valve it just pulls off with lots of wiggling and a bit of levering - mine was tight.
Most important for me was to remove the o-ring from the plastic housing and fitting onto the end of the small bore by-pass pipe before reassembly.
I found it easier to put the by-pass pipe into the plastic housing before remounting the diverter assembly - didn't seem to line up quite right otherwise.
The black plastic fitting and diverter needed gentle bashing with wood & hammer to go over the o-rings (in the chassis).
If the retaining clips don't go in easily try bending the arms down a little - I wasted ages wiggling and pushing thinking the by-pass pipe was not in far enough whereas the clip was just going above the hole!
It was not clear to me where the smaller diameter fibre washers in the repair kit went. The larger ones form the seal between the diverter and the heat exchanger but the other joints all seem to be o-rings.
I believe the large flat diverter/heat exchanger connection only has an o-ring.
I applied PTFE tape to the threads and silicone grease liberally to all o-ring joints and miraculously not one leak!
It failed to work properly afterwards though!! The flames would light but igniter kept sparking for 10 secs before going to lock out. Somehow water leaked into the control panel and once it was dried out it all worked fine again.
Admin reply: Nice one Clive - good job! Thanks for the tips; I'm sure they'll be useful for others tackling this one! ..Mathew
Name: Steve
From: Manchester
E-mail: Viewable to admin only
Replaced the worcester boiler diaphragm yesterday. 3 hour job, no leaks, saved me £250 and now have all the hot water I need. Thanks :thumbsup: